Monday 7 — Saturday 12 September 2026

Three ways
to do Greece

Two start with the same drive to a fishing harbour and then split — one keeps moving, one barely does. The third puts you on a plane.

5–6Nights
2Travellers
SeptShoulder

Option A · Your own car

Kavala & the coast

A working port with an Ottoman old town stacked above the fish market, 65 km of coastline west of it, and an island offshore. Half a day's drive from your door.

Getting there ≈5 hrs

  • ShumenLeave 05:30–06:00 Fill the tank here — Bulgarian diesel is meaningfully cheaper. Buy the e-vignette online first.
  • Kardzhali≈180 km · 2 hr 15
  • Makaza — NymfaiaBorder · 20–40 min No passport control since Bulgaria joined Schengen's land borders in January 2025. Still queues on peak weekends — cross before 08:00.
  • Komotini≈40 km · 45 min · joins A2
  • Kavala≈65 km · 45 min on the motorway Arrive early afternoon. Roughly 290–300 km all in.
Check before you go. The Komotini–Nymfaia approach was closed by landslides in 2025 with a detour via Karidia. Confirm it's reopened, or use Zlatograd–Thermes toward Xanthi instead.
What the driving costs

Path A covers roughly 800 km all in, Path B nearer 700. Pick your consumption:

~5 L/100 km€52–80
~6.5 L/100 km€68–105
~8 L/100 km€84–127

Low end = filling mostly in Bulgaria, high end = filling in Greece, where diesel was around €1.99/L in mid-August. Add the weekly e-vignette and €3–5 each way in Greek tolls.

Pick a pace Two paths

One base on the coast, a swim every single day, and just enough sightseeing that she doesn't feel cheated. About half the driving.

Where to base Path B

Nea Peramos or Nea Iraklitsa

Twenty minutes west of the city, on the best sand in the region, with tavernas and beach bars on the front. You unpack once and stop driving. Kavala's old town is a short evening trip when you want it.

Walk to the seaBeach barsQuiet nights

The beach index West of the city

From KavalaQuiet → busy
4 km BatisBlue Flag, pools, restaurant on site, free parking.
5 km ToscaSmall Blue Flag cove, trees to the water, bar and Mediterranean restaurant.
13 km Nea IraklitsaFishing village front. Best taverna cluster on the coast, parking, beach bars.
15 km VrasidasPeninsula behind the fortress. Sandy pockets, greenery, no facilities, dirt road in.
20 km AmmolofoiThe famous one. White sand, dunes, the biggest beach bars — but no taverna.
31 km Sarakina · ElaiochoriSand and fine gravel, deepens fast. Paloma beach bar does food; sunbed pair ~€10.
35 km Ammoglossa · KeramotiPine forest to a sandbar, shallow a long way out. Village tavernas walkable.

Filled dots on the left mean quiet and unorganised; on the right, beach bars and a crowd. September takes roughly one dot off everything.

The days Tap a row

Travel Sight Beach Food Water Spa
Day 1

Arrive and stop

Travel · MorningCross Makaza early, straight past Kavala to Nea Peramos.
Beach · AfternoonUnpack, walk to the village beach, first swim. +
WhereNea Peramos' own beach is long, sandy and free, with a pedestrianised front. No driving needed.
NearbyAmmolofoi is 4 km further west if you want the famous sand on day one.
DinnerOn the front. Nothing planned after that. +
Go toTou Kostantaki — the most popular place in Nea Peramos, tucked in a side street off the main drag rather than on it. Sea urchin, long-cooked octopus, crispy courgette, honest house wine.
BookYes. It fills even in early September, and the terrace goes first.
OrMira-Mare on the beach street if you want tables actually facing the water.
Day 2

Ammolofoi, then the cove

Beach · MorningAmmolofoi, 4 km west. +
SunbedsPeponi and Liquid are the long-standing bars. Both have showers, changing rooms, beach tennis and volleyball courts. Around €10 a pair, sometimes free if you order.
Food hereBeach-bar food only — burgers, sandwiches, Greek salads, fruit. Fine for a snack, not a lunch.
ParkingFree, three large areas, but it's the busiest beach in the region so arrive before 11:00.
LunchBack into Nea Peramos — 4 km, five minutes. +
WhyBecause there is no taverna at Ammolofoi. Rather than settle for a burger on the sand, drive the five minutes back.
Go toTou Kostantaki again if you liked it, or Mira-Mare for the sea view. Both walkable from the village car park.
Beach · AfternoonVrasidas, for the quiet half of the day. +
WhatA peninsula behind the Anaktoroupolis fortress. Small sandy pockets backed by greenery, clear sheltered water, almost nobody.
Getting inA few kilometres of dirt track through trees. Most cars manage it with care, but it's not a polished arrival and conditions vary.
FacilitiesNone. No bar, no shade, no water, no toilets. Bring everything, and eat before you go — which is why lunch is scheduled first.
Sight · Golden hourAnaktoroupolis fortress, on the hill above. +
TimeTen minutes. Byzantine walls on the headland between Nea Peramos and the peninsula, best light late.
ThenDinner in Nea Iraklitsa — see below.
DinnerNea Iraklitsa harbour. +
Go toStou Sarri, above the picturesque harbour — the one locals name first here. Seafood risotto, fresh fish, fair prices.
OrMaistrali for the day's catch in a relaxed beachside setting, or Psaropoula for grilled octopus and calamari with sea views.
NoteSeven minutes' drive from Nea Peramos. Park by the harbour and walk the front first.
Day 3

West along the coast, then steam

Beach · MorningSarakina, below Elaiochori — 30 minutes west. +
WhySand and fine gravel, water that goes deep quickly — properly good for swimming rather than paddling. A fraction of Ammolofoi's crowd.
Food hereTwo beach bars sit side by side. Paloma is the bigger, with a restaurant and a proper sitting area — so this one you can eat at without moving.
SunbedsAbout €10 for a pair with an umbrella. Reservations are a July–August problem, not a September one.
Sight · MiddayThe Olive and Oil Museum, up in Elaiochori. +
WhatThe village name means "village of olive trees" and the museum is the reason to climb the 5 km up from the beach. Twenty minutes of culture with lunch attached.
OptionalSkip it entirely if the water's good. This is a slow day by design.
Beach · AfternoonDrift back east, second swim at Nea Peramos. +
RouteThe old coastal road rather than the motorway. Elaiochori, Myrtofyto and Eleftheres all have small bays if you want to stop again.
Spa · EveningHammam and massage at Kalliston, central Kavala. +
WhatA modern hammam built in the Ottoman bath tradition, with massage rooms. The 90-minute couples package covers hammam use, exfoliation with the glove, massage and a facial.
WhereP. Mela 5, in the city centre — walkable to dinner afterwards.
BookEmail ahead before you leave home. It's a small place and packages need scheduling.
GranderThe Imaret hotel in the old town has a hammam, massage rooms and a garden pool. Ask if they take non-residents; if not, a drink in those gardens is worth it anyway.
DinnerStay in the city, since you're already there. +
Go toBalaouro or Savvas at the Sfagia fishing harbour — the two tavernas Kavala locals name most often. Water's-edge tables.
SimplerParaliakon in the centre, next to the beach, good prices, fish and meat both.
Day 4

A day on the water

Water · All dayPick one of four ways to do it. +
CheapestGroup boat trip, €15–40 each for half or full day, three or four swim stops. Departs from Thassos, so ferry over as foot passengers first. Buy at the harbour the day before.
Best valueFull-day cruise from Potos or Limenaria, about €55 each. Roughly 09:00–19:00, four beach stops including Aliki where you swim over the sunken marble quarry. Coffee in the morning, grilled lunch with salad and wine. From Limenas the Eros II does the northern version.
NicestSmall-group sailing out of Limenas, about €79 each, capped at ten people, skipper cooks lunch aboard. Reaches coves the big boats skip. Sells out — book before you travel.
No boatTake the car on the ferry and do the island by road: Giola in the morning, Iatrou at Theologos for kid goat at lunch, Aliki in the afternoon. Same beaches, nothing to reserve.
WeatherEvery boat option is wind-dependent and reroutes or cancels above about 2 Beaufort. Keep the no-boat version as your backup rather than losing the day.
DinnerWherever you land, late and salty. +
If in LimenasThe old harbour has an outdoor ouzeri opposite the fishing boats, frequented by locals as much as visitors — mezedes and traditional music.
If back on the coastNea Iraklitsa, ten minutes from Keramoti's road. Stou Sarri again.
Day 5

One proper sight, then back to the sand

Sight · MorningPhilippi at opening. Ninety minutes is enough. +
SeeThe theatre and the paved Via Egnatia are the two things to walk to if you're keeping it short. Museum on site.
EntryTimed hourly slots. No shade — early matters.
FoodNothing at the site. Krinides village is two minutes away with cafés and tavernas.
Spa · MiddayKrinides mud baths, five minutes away. +
WhatThermal water mixed with mineral mud at a run therapy centre. Faintly ridiculous and genuinely relaxing. Showers on site.
HoursTuesday to Sunday, last session 16:00.
SeasonCloses 30 September. Phone ahead to confirm they're still running.
Beach · AfternoonTosca or Batis on the way back through town. +
ToscaSmall Blue Flag cove five km from the western entrance, trees running down to the water. Has a bar and a Mediterranean restaurant — so lunch is solved if you skipped Krinides village.
BatisFour km out, bigger and busier, with pools, a beach bar, a restaurant and free parking. Small entry fee.
Dinner · The big onePanagia old town, after walking the castle walls. +
Go toTo Araliki, cited as the best traditional taverna in the city, up in the historic quarter. Or Balaouro at Sfagia for the seafood version.
BeforeWalk up to the castle for the view over the bay, then down through the lanes past the Imaret as the light goes.
BookIt's a Friday. Reserve both.
Day 6

Last swim on the way out

Beach · MorningAmmoglossa at Keramoti — it's on the road home. +
WhatPine forest running down to a sandbar, water shallow a long way out, the calmest beach in the area.
FoodKeramoti village is a short walk from the beach areas and has tavernas — no need to drive on hungry.
RouteFrom Keramoti it's straight back up to Xanthi and the border, so nothing is backtracked.
Travel · AfternoonMakaza mid-afternoon, home for the evening.
Five-day version. Cut Day 3's drive west and go home Friday after Philippi. You lose the western coast and the hammam, which would be the shame of it.

The ferry Keramoti → Limenas

Keramoti Limenas 30–40 min
Frequency in seasonevery 30–60 min
Passenger€6
Car€22–27
Bookingat the port booth

No online booking on this route. Kavala → Skala Prinos also exists but takes 1 hr 15 and runs far less often.

Full taverna list

Kavala city
  • BalaouroSfagia harbour

    The most consistently recommended seafood in town, tables at the water's edge. Book ahead.

  • SavvasSfagia harbour

    Next door to Balaouro and equally beloved by locals. Same harbour, same fish, less queue.

  • To AralikiPanagia

    Cited as the city's best traditional taverna. Old recipes, up in the historic quarter.

  • To KoutoukakiPanagia

    Opposite the Imaret. Two people can eat fish and meat for around €20.

  • ApikoOld town

    One of the oldest fish tavernas here. Red mullet and the house salad. Go early.

  • KarnagioShipyard beach

    Seafood among boats in dry dock. Worth the drive for the setting alone.

  • ParaliakonCentre

    Next to the beach in town, good prices, fish and meat. The easy default.

  • PsarakiHarbour end

    Small ouzeri that returning locals go straight to. Mezedes built for ouzo.

  • BrikiPanagia · coffee

    The old town café with the best view over the harbour and the promenade.

Out on the coast
  • Tou KostantakiNea Peramos

    The area's standout. In a side street off the main drag, family-run, always full. Sea urchin, long-cooked octopus, crispy courgette. Reserve.

  • Mira-MareNea Peramos

    On the beach street with sea views. The easy walkable option after a swim.

  • Stou SarriNea Iraklitsa

    Overlooking the fishing harbour. Seafood risotto, quality and prices both praised locally.

  • MaistraliNea Iraklitsa

    The local pick for the day's catch in a relaxed beachside setting.

  • PsaropoulaNea Iraklitsa

    Classic fish taverna with sea views. Grilled octopus, fried calamari, Greek salads.

  • PalomaSarakina beach

    Beach bar with a proper restaurant and sitting area — the only real food on that stretch.

Thassos
  • IatrouTheologos

    The island's best-known taverna for goat and lamb on the spit. Family atmosphere, mountain views, live music nights.

  • Taverna PefkospiliaAliki beach

    Tables on the sand under pines. Stuffed calamari with feta, tomato and herbs is the dish.

  • Taverna IreneTheologos

    The other Theologos institution — rustic, family-run, traditional home cooking.

What to actually order

This coast

Gavros — fresh anchovies, grilled or fried — is the local signature. Then barbounia, grilled octopus, mydia saganaki, fried courgette.

How it works

Order mezedes to share. Dishes come when they're ready, not in courses. Fresh fish is priced by the kilo — ask to see it and agree the price before it's cooked. Ask for the psari tis imeras, the fish of the day. House wine by the carafe is normal and cheap.

Drink

Ouzo or tsipouro with the mezedes, by the water. That's the whole northern Aegean ritual and it's worth doing twice.

After dark

Bars, beach bars, and honest expectations

Kavala is a port city of about 55,000 with a student population — bar-led rather than club-led. Three zones:

Waterfront & harbour

The main after-dark spine. Cocktail bars and lounges, busy from around 22:00, smart-casual.

Panagia old town

Smaller, more atmospheric bars in the Ottoman lanes. Better for drinks than dancing.

Ammolofoi beach bars

Where the parties are. Visit Kavala calls it the busiest spot for young people across Eastern Macedonia, with weekend parties running late. Peponi and Liquid are the long-standing ones, and Sarakina's bars run DJ nights too.

Your dates cut both ways. Beach-bar season peaks in July and August; by the second week of September the big events have wound down. And you're there Monday to Friday, when Greek nightlife is quiet. Friday the 11th is your night. For a genuinely big one you'd need Thessaloniki, two hours west — a separate overnight, not a trip out.